The story I didn't dare to tell my Father !

When we started planning our long impending trip to Europe, I wanted to see the different faces of Europe which many had awed about – the renowned  Gothic architecture, the sparkling snowy mountains, the beautiful countryside where one could see the real old Europe and of course the breathtaking coastline.

It was a dream to saunter along the exotic coastlines often seen in movies and photographs, but this time I wanted to make it a reality.  I perused and perused the internet to find the right kind of place to visit when I came across Cinque Terre listed under the best coastal walks of Europe. Cinque Terre, a UNESCO heritage site, is a group of five beautiful villages resting delicately on the hilly coastline of Italy with the sea gently splashing its waves along its coast. One glance at it told me that this would be ‘the’ place. I then zeroed on two coastal treks for this trip due to lack of time.

On Day 5 of our trip, we halted at Levanto, a small coastal town very close to Monterosso, the biggest of the five villages of Cinque Terre. Though I was initially skeptical about not getting to stay in the Cinque Terre villages, we were glad because we loved Levanto at the very first sight – neat houses and the narrow alleys lined with gelato parlors and pizzeria, friendly and ever smiling people and of course due to the spectacular coastline.

We started our trek to Monterosso around 5 in the evening, and around 10 minutes after a steep but beautiful climb through a stoned stairway, my sole companion decided to return to the shores of Levanto. I decided to embark the journey alone and continued the climb. Roughly after 20 minutes of uphill climb, I saw the first view of Levanto. The curve of the sea shore against the small town looked so beautiful that I stayed there for few minutes relishing the way up there. But I knew there were miles to go and so I moved on.

Levanto - First View

The pathway

I exchanged pleasantries with the people returning to Levanto from Monterosso. It was such a contrast from India where talking to strangers are met with suspicion. A couple sitting on a bench in the pathway even asked me to sit with them and watch the sunset, for the sky was turning pink and the sun was inching to retire for the day. I thanked them, took a minute to relish that moment, clicked a picture and moved on.

Panoramic view with the setting sun 

The setting sun had gradually changed the color of the sky as well the sea. The sky had shades of blue, gray, pink, orange, credits to the fiery red orb moving quietly towards the sea. The sea on its part added to the beauty, with its water simmering in the fire raging in the sky. It was a blessing to watch this beautiful drama of nature so high up in the mountain. In the local slang, it was ‘next level yaar’.

THE drama of the evening

I stood there watching and watching oblivious of the rest of the world, unmindful of the time, unmindful of the fact that I was alone high up in the mountains with a long way to go, unmindful that after the sun sets it would be pitch dark, unmindful that I have no torch, nor food nor water, and that the next stretch is through deep woods which might probably house any type of creature.  All of a sudden my panic monster jogged me to reality and so I freaked out – What should I do now?  Should I return to where I started? How could I even continue in the dark? Shall I just lie down here and wait for someone to find me in the morning? I had no clue…!

I shrieked to no one, and then I calmed down and decided to enjoy the present now. I went to the edge of the cliff and sat on a firm rock with my legs hanging towards the sea deep below.  I watched in bliss as the sun slowly went under the sea. And then it was gone, in a whiff to give its light to the other part of the world. That momentary bliss gave me my confidence back and I was now determined to continue my stride. I had a mind that was intact, legs that could carry me, the sea making all the sound she can and encouraging me and yeah the woods in front of me calling me to trust her and follow the path which hundreds would have taken before me. I picked up four rocks as souvenirs for the people who had been there for me and made me the person I am and proceeded to the woods.

In semi darkness I walked through the woods slowly but enjoying my strides, listening to the sound of the sea waves crashing distantly and singing aloud the songs of Rajesh Khanna. Then all of a sudden my path was illuminated by a faint light, I looked up to see the silvery moon hanging in the sky wishing me luck. Oh yes when you want to do something very badly, the whole universe conspires to achieve it. Exhilarated I continued further and further, slowing my pace when light was scarce and when the climb was steep and rocky.  At one place, I stopped listening to the sound of water gushing out from somewhere. It was a mini waterfalls, and I decided to quench my thirst without worrying about its source. It was the sweetest water I had ever tasted, perhaps a reward for my endurance.

For what seemed like ages, there were no signs of life except for the usual sounds of the forest. There was a steep turn towards my left and then I saw the entire line of Cinque Terre villages at a point named Punta Mesco. I was overjoyed at the sight of the villages and felt like the lost traveler has finally found the highway. That sight on the top of the mountain, of the line of villages was another moment to cherish forever.

My handwritten route map

I went downhill, first on rugged pathway and then on well-lit stone steps towards the beautiful village of Monterosso. What a noise the calm sea makes when it nears the shore, as if rejoicing the reunion with its roars. Around 8.30 pm, approximately after 3.5 hours of trek I entered the streets of Monterosso exchanging hellos with the people there. Though I was alone only for a few hours, I was delighted at the slightest human interactions now. A kind lady at a store not only opened her store to get me a drink but also helped me find my train back to Levanto.  I reached Levanto with my heart and soul brimming with memories to be cherished till eternity.

More stories to come from my Euro Diaries...