Beating the Goan Solitude

A lot of times I have wished to explore a new place alone, to know how it is to travel alone, to experience and experiment solitude, to just observe the place and its culture in my own way. Reading travel stories of solo trips by women didn't help. So one day when I got that opportunity I seized it, knowing very well that I would regret if I miss this time.

My train from Mumbai to Goa started at 10 o’clock in the night, it didn’t seem unusual since I have travelled alone from Chennai-Bangalore countless times. But the very thoughts about spending the next 35-40 hours all alone in Goa created an unusual feeling. Like any other train travel day, I was reading , listening to music, chatting with a fellow passenger (that's unusual of me) before I dozed off.  I am a fan of train travelling, I love to look outside the window and watch each frame getting replaced by another , the wind hitting forcefully onto my face and I feel as if I am leaving the world behind me. 

So the next morning I traded my place for the window and kept looking at the green cover of the western ghats occasionally intruded by the backwaters of the Arabian sea. 

The train reached about an hour late which was expected.  I took an Auto and was charged 200 INR for the 7km ride to the resort. The route was as beautiful as one could ask for, the narrow roads with fields on each side sometimes sidelined by rows of coconut trees. And then we reached and I was happy to see that the beach was hardly 200 metres away. I dumped my bags and went to explore the beach.

The Colva beach is one of the most populous beach in South Goa and that's where the resort is situated. Surprisingly the beach was not much crowded, there were hardly 20 people, which by Mumbai standards doesn't count at all. I moved away and saw that the rest of the beach was even more empty with 1-2 people here and there. I couldn’t wait to start my beach walk.

Colva Beach - First Look

I decided to head towards the north, because after some 1.5  km is a restaurant named Mickeys, claimed to be one of the best restaurants in Goa for seafood. This is what I do when I could not fix on a particular route.

Each step along the beach was refreshing, the air and the land seems to be so much cleaner and . It would be a shame if I even compare these beaches to Mumbai. I walked on listening to the waves somersaulting in joy as they reach the shore; I walked on enjoying the calmness in my mind; I walked on humming Mohammad Rafi’s ‘Zindagi Kaisi hai paheli’; I walked on enjoying my lone time doing my most favourite thing; and I walked on hoping to enjoy the famous rava fried fish and tiger prawns of Goa at Mickey’s. After walking for some 15 mins I saw a group of people bustling along a long fish-net that seems to have been freshly pulled out from the sea. 

The fresh booty

The bigger fishes were thrown into the baskets and sent away in small trucks probably to local vendors, the smaller fishes mostly Sardines which were stuck in the mesh where pulled out later by another group.  

There were also small children who had come to try their luck with the left out fishes. I hoped someone would make a stall right there and fry some of those fishes for me. As I watched them, I noticed they were throwing away few thick blobs. On a closer inspection I found that there were some fishes and even small sting rays and starfishes inside them, the unintended preys of human greed. Anyway this explained the scores of dead starfishes scattered throughout the beach.

Walking further, passing a small fishing village I finally reached the restaurant sweating badly and with my ankle showing signs of pain due to a previous injury.  It looked so inviting with steps leading to the restaurant right from the beach. As I climbed the steps I imagined myself devouring my favourite Sear fish, only to find out that the restaurant is closed and would remain so until 7 and the clock had hardly turned 3. I walked away in disappointment and consoled myself that I would be able to find another good restaurant on my way back.

Sunset - something which I can't afford to miss

I reached my hotel around 7 after an unsatisfied meal of Goan curry with rice in some shady restaurant, the only restaurant opened at that time. Off season vacation has its own downsides. Nevertheless I did not miss out the evening sunset, I can never ever get blissed out of the sunsets. The beach walk had tired me out, and so I parked rest of the evening for reading and sleeping. The morning had dawned, I had finished a Jeffry Archer book before I crawled into the bed with my eyes puffed up.

It was 11 AM on the second day of the trip and my supposedly ‘better’-half Prabhu who was to join the trip by now, has not reached Goa yet. Poor guy had been travelling for the last 16 hours in a bus and would not be expected until at-least for the next three hours. I didn't want to stay at the hotel anymore nor did my rumbling stomach, apparently the morning Chole Batura was not sufficient.  There were some good restaurants at some 1-2 km from my hotel. The sun was scorching and my legs were not to be depended upon. But with no proper transport I had no other option but to walk, I chose  the main road with the intent of finding a nice restaurant and also to see the Goan marketplace. So I walked on looking at the tattoo shops and the mannequins sporting the flowy apparels. I checked into a couple of dry fruit shops never buying anything, tourist places are not for shopping. As I walked, I started looking more at the Goan houses than their shops. One could spot the typical houses with their long windows, pitched roofs and big gardens. I am going to stay in such a place the next time I visit Goa.

I walked into an almost empty restaurant by the name Penne Al Dente which seems to have been opened recently. I was asked to sit comfortably in the air conditioned hall on the first floor which I obliged to happily. The waiter came with the Menu card and casually asked if I had come alone. I replied in negative and cooked up a story about my husband joining me in a while. During the entire course of the meal, he would have come upstairs at-least 5-6 times sometimes in the pretext of doing unnecessary chore like removing tissues or at-times just to loiter around the room asking me questions as to where I have come from, what I do, where I am staying in Goa and so on. A similar incident had happened the previous day but I had ignored it as a one-off. This time it was creepy, I quickly finished the meal and left the place. Later I asked my friend, a Goan guy if these kind of incidents were common to solo women travellers to which he replied in affirmation. I could not believe this happens in Goa, of all the places. My friend adds on that there could be many reasons why people act like this, other than the obvious one of course, either they want to be your local guide and show places to earn money, or they could be drug suppliers. So much for travelling alone !

It was 3 PM and I was back to the hotel room safe and sound There is a knock on the door and I see Prabhu weary and dreary because of the fateful journey. I am happy to see him, solitude ends but no complaints here. 

Of course then followed the typical two wheeler ride to the usual beaches - Colva, Cansaulim, Benaulim; and to one not so usual beach named Betul Beach where the Sal river meets the sea separating the dry brown Betul with a green thicket of Southernmost Goa. 

The Betul beach - Sal river meets the Arabian Sea

What started as a solo trip walking in the quiet of the Colva beach ended up in a deep conversations and laughter in the Betul beach. The river met the sea gracefully to end its journey  start a new journey, and so did I. 

Locked in Havelock

I have always been a beach person, I could sit on the shores and gape at the seemingly endless sea for hours together wondering what lay beneath its fierce waves. Though the sea seems rough along the shore, I have always found the place embracing and soothing my inner self, the chaos in my mind miraculously disappears and an inexplicable tranquillity sets in. And this was why I was overjoyed when one of my friends suggested a trip to the Andaman. The exotic beach-line we had seen only in photographs and the ‘Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara’ type scuba dive which had crowned my bucket list for quite a while stemmed to my mind and by that afternoon we even had our itinerary planned.

We travelled during the first week of October right after the proclaimed season started, though some say anytime is a good time to visit the Andaman.

Let me now recount what we did in the Andaman and what more we could have.We spent most of our stint in Havelock so obviously this write up is also Havelockish.

A brief stay at Port Blair

Port Blair was the first place we visited in the Andaman and we loved it instantly, for it was a city on the hills with roads running through the wild forest trees and was also an island by itself. The trees and the water surrounding us gave us a very blissful feel about the place, though I feel guilty when I say the second day at Havelock made us forget this beauty straightaway. Nonetheless we had fun roaming around the city, having the best Shawarma with freshly made Kubus in a hotel named Milan ; the city view at the time of sunset at the Jogger’s park and of course the famous Cellular Jail of Andaman which held a lot of heart wrenching stories of the Indian freedom fighters.

Cellular Jail

Cruise to Havelock

Another of my first timer experience was cruising from Port Blair to Havelock, though it was quite a  short ride of three hours. We boarded the morning cruise – Green Ocean Liner from Port Blair harbour and were quite excited at the prospect of being in the open sea. Our faces drooped down in disappointment when we were taken to our seats at the lower most deck of the ship completely walled and alienated from the outside world. The disappointment was short lived as we were allowed to the open deck, half an hour after the journey commenced. We simply relished the view of the sea stretching far till the horizon nearly from all the sides, and the glimpse of some distant islands. We were so overjoyed that we felt like dancing, someone from the crew sensed our thoughts and started playing some Bollywood dance numbers and so we danced and twirled to our hearts content. Our return cruise was not as enjoyable since there was no open deck and the ship cruised at a high speed causing nausea everywhere. Make sure to check if there is an open deck when you do the bookings. There is also a helicopter service plying between Port Blair and Havelock, so do check your options before making the bookings. How I wish I could go back and try that helicopter ride once. Experience everything like this is your last day on the earth and you wouldn’t dare to miss any of the fun.

Cruising and chilling in the open deck

Scuba

Scuba Diving was something which we were looking forward the most, and true to our expectations it turned out to be the best experience we had in the entire trip. We were initially confused since there were a lot of dive schools hosting varying packages and prices. Finally we decided to take the one which our hotel manager suggested.

We went to the dive school at 6.30 in the morning, the sun was pretty much high in the sky by then. We were given scuba wet suits and shoes (I traded them for a pair of fins later) for diving and waded to the shallow waters of a nearby beach for our training.

We were taught about the breathing techniques for surviving underwater, tips on using the scuba apparatus and the most important of all the hand signs to be used underwater.

After we were confident of surviving underwater, we were taken to the dive spot in a speed boat. We were asked to jump backwards since we had considerable weights on our back. We dived in, and the first thing I noticed was the blue sea and the sun’s rays desperately trying to penetrate into the deep fathoms of the water. A calm aura was cast around me as if I was in a different world. I was like a little girl lost in a fairy tale and then I saw shoals of fishes in stark blue lurking around the corals, now this has to be a fairy tale. I dared not to disturb them but kept watching them wriggling their tiny yellow fins. Further deep I saw many types of corals, multi coloured fishes and some weird creatures we were asked to stay away from. And then my guide pointed me to the school of Gray orange fishes that suddenly came out of nowhere and filled the blue canvas. Now and then we saw nemo fishes around the sea anemones. The blue sea, the fishes, the corals and the sea creatures could never cease to amaze us. Our allotted time was over in a flash and we had to be dragged to the surface,our minds still lingering in the deep blues.

Deep in the sea amidst corals and fishes

Sunrise

Witnessing a perfect sunrise has been a long cherished desire. How I have fantasised the sun rising slowly and serenely from the sea inching slowly up the sky setting it illuminating it in pink. I wondered if visiting an island like Andaman would finally get my wish fulfilled and I kept my fingers crossed for the D-day. On the third day of our trip I woke up while it was still dark and walked along the beach close to our resort and reached the spot where the sun was to show up from the sea any moment. The day had dawned for the sun’s rays have already reached the earth spreading warmth and light to the world, but I was waiting for the Hero to arrive in grandeur. To my dismay, it showed up not from the sea but from a layer of clouds that was just at the sea level and so I had to imagine the layer of the cloud as the sea and witness the event. The sun at first looked like a small golden orange dot and with its growing rim, it rose slowly but steadily without making any fuss and fanfare and yet the whole world seem to awaken in its presence. I watched till I was no longer able to admire its fiery with my naked eyes and then walked back to the resort promising myself that someday I would see my perfect sunrise. 

A nearly perfect sunrise

Beaches

The pristine beaches of Andaman, this was what stirred us to visit the place, where else could one find such exotic beachlines in India where man has let nature to be her own self. I had braved myself not to expect them as exquisite as in the Insta-posts, for I attributed them to be the filter effect. But to my astonishment they were even more impressive, never in my life have I seen such blue green waters, so clear that I could see those tiny little translucent fishes swarming around our legs. The mangrove trees along the coastline apart from preserving nature’s balance is a striking beauty on its own. We sat on one such tree in one such beach and watched the colours of the sea in utopia and never wanting to leave the place.

The trees, the beach and the clouds watching over them.

Water Activities

Apart from scuba, we did snorkelling, jet skiing and banana ride. Though we should have done snorkelling before scuba, I loved snorkelling too for it was a different experience and besides I loved watching the corals and fishes so close to the shore. It is easy to breathe through the snorkel mask than those scuba regulators. It would be even better if you can get your own snorkel kit and snorkel on your own, provided you can swim and know where to snorkel. Jet skiing and banana ride was fun too and the speed quotient was a thrill. After wrapping up the water activities we tried swimming in the beach but couldn’t do long since the sea water irritates your nose and mouth. We loved chilling in the beach water though and that’s what we did the longest, especially in the gorgeous Kalapathar beach.

Chilling in the beach !

Travel like locals

Private cabs and autos are comfortable, yes. But believe me, the experience you get while travelling with the locals is something totally different, the school children chattering excitedly, the locals having casual talks with the conductor about everyday affairs, foreigners enquiring about the various places to visit. At the end we all agreed that public transport is a lot more fun and rejuvenating than the comfort of the cabs.

Sipping hot tea as we waited for our bus

Eat-outs

One thing we learnt the hard way is to chuck out the fantasies of having food in big fancy restaurants when on a holiday. We emptied our pockets at an outlandish restaurant with an amazing beach view with colourful boats furrowed in, only to be utterly disappointed with the food. Luckily we had discovered a small but nice local restaurant named SQUID which served yum seafood. Do not worry about hygiene, they prepare and serve clean, I even did peek-a-boo at their kitchen so rest assured.  We also tried another restaurant – Anju Coco Resto which had a neat ambience and served tasty desserts, our favourite was the Banopi pie.

Yummy Banopi-pie

                    

People

It is a natural tendency to eye strangers with suspicion in an unknown place, but towards the end of our stay we realised that we need not have. The people were so friendly that they helped us proactively without any expectations. Once when we were stranded at a beach wondering if there would be any mode of transport back to our resort, a gentleman out of nowhere helped us catch a jeep and went his way. Nowhere in Havelock would you be able to find a locker or clock room. We were asked to keep our bags anywhere and not to worry about its safety, just like we act at home, keep our things anywhere and not think about its safety. This place was like home. Anytime, any day people make us cherish the place we visit.

Cycling

Since we had practically nothing to do on our last day at Havelock, we decided to rent a bicycle(costs 150 for a day) and aimlessly roam around.  We realised that we should have done this on the very first day. It was so liberating that I felt as if I was in my 5^th grade trying to get around the world in my first ladybird. Cycling is the best way to explore any place, we realised that places were not as far as they looked like. We covered distances which would have cost us 500 rupees in an auto and also found a secluded beach which we might not have found otherwise.

Cycling to the shore

Overall this was another such vacation that not only filled pages in my travel diary but also etched my heart and soul with its lovely memories.

The story I didn't dare to tell my Father !

When we started planning our long impending trip to Europe, I wanted to see the different faces of Europe which many had awed about – the renowned  Gothic architecture, the sparkling snowy mountains, the beautiful countryside where one could see the real old Europe and of course the breathtaking coastline.

It was a dream to saunter along the exotic coastlines often seen in movies and photographs, but this time I wanted to make it a reality.  I perused and perused the internet to find the right kind of place to visit when I came across Cinque Terre listed under the best coastal walks of Europe. Cinque Terre, a UNESCO heritage site, is a group of five beautiful villages resting delicately on the hilly coastline of Italy with the sea gently splashing its waves along its coast. One glance at it told me that this would be ‘the’ place. I then zeroed on two coastal treks for this trip due to lack of time.

On Day 5 of our trip, we halted at Levanto, a small coastal town very close to Monterosso, the biggest of the five villages of Cinque Terre. Though I was initially skeptical about not getting to stay in the Cinque Terre villages, we were glad because we loved Levanto at the very first sight – neat houses and the narrow alleys lined with gelato parlors and pizzeria, friendly and ever smiling people and of course due to the spectacular coastline.

We started our trek to Monterosso around 5 in the evening, and around 10 minutes after a steep but beautiful climb through a stoned stairway, my sole companion decided to return to the shores of Levanto. I decided to embark the journey alone and continued the climb. Roughly after 20 minutes of uphill climb, I saw the first view of Levanto. The curve of the sea shore against the small town looked so beautiful that I stayed there for few minutes relishing the way up there. But I knew there were miles to go and so I moved on.

Levanto - First View

The pathway

I exchanged pleasantries with the people returning to Levanto from Monterosso. It was such a contrast from India where talking to strangers are met with suspicion. A couple sitting on a bench in the pathway even asked me to sit with them and watch the sunset, for the sky was turning pink and the sun was inching to retire for the day. I thanked them, took a minute to relish that moment, clicked a picture and moved on.

Panoramic view with the setting sun 

The setting sun had gradually changed the color of the sky as well the sea. The sky had shades of blue, gray, pink, orange, credits to the fiery red orb moving quietly towards the sea. The sea on its part added to the beauty, with its water simmering in the fire raging in the sky. It was a blessing to watch this beautiful drama of nature so high up in the mountain. In the local slang, it was ‘next level yaar’.

THE drama of the evening

I stood there watching and watching oblivious of the rest of the world, unmindful of the time, unmindful of the fact that I was alone high up in the mountains with a long way to go, unmindful that after the sun sets it would be pitch dark, unmindful that I have no torch, nor food nor water, and that the next stretch is through deep woods which might probably house any type of creature.  All of a sudden my panic monster jogged me to reality and so I freaked out – What should I do now?  Should I return to where I started? How could I even continue in the dark? Shall I just lie down here and wait for someone to find me in the morning? I had no clue…!

I shrieked to no one, and then I calmed down and decided to enjoy the present now. I went to the edge of the cliff and sat on a firm rock with my legs hanging towards the sea deep below.  I watched in bliss as the sun slowly went under the sea. And then it was gone, in a whiff to give its light to the other part of the world. That momentary bliss gave me my confidence back and I was now determined to continue my stride. I had a mind that was intact, legs that could carry me, the sea making all the sound she can and encouraging me and yeah the woods in front of me calling me to trust her and follow the path which hundreds would have taken before me. I picked up four rocks as souvenirs for the people who had been there for me and made me the person I am and proceeded to the woods.

In semi darkness I walked through the woods slowly but enjoying my strides, listening to the sound of the sea waves crashing distantly and singing aloud the songs of Rajesh Khanna. Then all of a sudden my path was illuminated by a faint light, I looked up to see the silvery moon hanging in the sky wishing me luck. Oh yes when you want to do something very badly, the whole universe conspires to achieve it. Exhilarated I continued further and further, slowing my pace when light was scarce and when the climb was steep and rocky.  At one place, I stopped listening to the sound of water gushing out from somewhere. It was a mini waterfalls, and I decided to quench my thirst without worrying about its source. It was the sweetest water I had ever tasted, perhaps a reward for my endurance.

For what seemed like ages, there were no signs of life except for the usual sounds of the forest. There was a steep turn towards my left and then I saw the entire line of Cinque Terre villages at a point named Punta Mesco. I was overjoyed at the sight of the villages and felt like the lost traveler has finally found the highway. That sight on the top of the mountain, of the line of villages was another moment to cherish forever.

My handwritten route map

I went downhill, first on rugged pathway and then on well-lit stone steps towards the beautiful village of Monterosso. What a noise the calm sea makes when it nears the shore, as if rejoicing the reunion with its roars. Around 8.30 pm, approximately after 3.5 hours of trek I entered the streets of Monterosso exchanging hellos with the people there. Though I was alone only for a few hours, I was delighted at the slightest human interactions now. A kind lady at a store not only opened her store to get me a drink but also helped me find my train back to Levanto.  I reached Levanto with my heart and soul brimming with memories to be cherished till eternity.

More stories to come from my Euro Diaries...